Lot 100

PATEK PHILIPPE – CALATRAVA 96
HAND-WOUND TIME-ONLY WATCH IN STAINLESS STEEL WITH CASE MADE BY F. BORGEL, DIAL WITH GOLD HOUR MARKERS AND HANDS, AND SMALL SECONDS AT 6 O’CLOCK.

PATEK PHILIPPE

€ 10.000,00 / 15.000,00
Estimate
€ 5.000,00
Starting price
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Description
Brand: Patek Philippe
Model: Calatrava
Year: 1950
Reference: 96
Dial: White
Case No.: 655XXX
Movement: Manual winding
Caliber: Patek Philippe 12'''120
Material: Stainless Steel
Bracelet/Strap: Stainless Steel
Size: 30.5 mm
Accessories: Extract from the archives, Patek Philippe leather strap, Patek Philippe steel buckle
Notes: Hand-wound time-only watch in stainless steel, with case produced by F. Borgel. White dial with small seconds at 6 o’clock, gold hour markers and hands. Stainless steel bracelet. Domed plexiglass crystal. Press-fit stainless steel case back.



Introduced in 1932, this model represents Patek Philippe's first serially produced wristwatch and the first major project developed by the Stern family following their acquisition of the manufacture. A landmark timepiece in the brand's history, it laid the foundations for the aesthetic and technical identity that would define modern Patek Philippe production.

Throughout its production, the model was offered in numerous configurations, varying in dial design, case material and case manufacturer. Cases in precious metals were produced by Gerlach, while the stainless steel examples were manufactured by Taubert & Fils (Borgel). Regardless of configuration, all examples featured a three-piece case measuring 30.5 mm in diameter, one of the model's defining characteristics.

Production can be divided into four principal series, each distinguished by the different movement employed.

The present example, manufactured in 1950, stands out for its particularly rare configuration, combining a stainless steel case with a dial fitted with applied gold indexes. This configuration is confirmed by the Extract from the Archives, attesting to its originality and conformity with the watch's original specifications.
Live auction 1233

RETROFUTURE WATCH AND JEWELRY AUCTION

tue 14 July 2026